Affordable Sauvignon Blanc

A Strapping Lad from Bergerac

by Anne Popoff

Sometimes all you want is an uncomplicated, easy sipping glass of white wine. So I am presenting you today with a delicious white wine from the Bergerac region of France. Bergerac is south-east of Bordeaux, in the Dordogne, but is considered to be part of the South West region of wines in France. Bergerac grows the same grapes as in Bordeaux, but in a slightly more rustic style. This makes for wines that are drinkable sooner and are a bit sunnier in flavour, given that the weather there is already more continental (cooler winters, hotter summers).

This particular wine, Grand Gaillard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 is untypical for this varietal (LCBO, #168500, $12.95). It is not an in-your-face New Zealand style, nor is it the restrained Bordeaux version, and definitely not the grassy Loire version either. It is unique in its approach to the classic grape.

This very affordable Sauvignon Blanc, with a screw cap at that, is in fact full of pleasant surprises: on the nose, no immediate typical aromas, yet a certain fruitiness with white blossom floral notes. Then on the palate, all sorts of interesting developments: first, a crisp, citrus attack, followed by a velvety, almost lanolin-like, mouth feel, ending on a fruity (think apples, pears, some gooseberry and citrus) note. All in all, a balanced wine, which hits you on many levels, all satisfying, and only 12.5% alcohol.

Grand Gaillard, which in French means a strapping lad, is appropriate for many occasions: to wind down after a long day’s work, as an aperitif, nicely chilled, with dinner (any fish, light non-tomato based pasta, roast chicken with lemon and rosemary, a creamy wedge of soft Ontario goat’s cheese, or a hard, aged goat’s milk cheddar.

Santé!

Anne Popoff is our wine columnist. I’ll keep you informed on the best wines, noteworthy restaurants and occasionally, I’ll talk about a great book or neat travel destination.  As a former investment banker, I had the good fortune to be able to switch careers and became a certified sommelier here in Toronto. This has led me to get involved with the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers and I am now the President of the Ontario Chapter (www.capsontario.ca)

Anne Popoff, certified professional sommelier

From banking to bottles

Anne Popoff is a former international investment banker, fluent in several languages, who has lived and worked all around the world. After leaving her 20-year banking career, she studied to become a certified sommelier. That was seven years ago. Her first job after completing her arduous sommelier studies was with a French wine marketing company in Toronto. Since then she has established her own business – Le Savoir-Vivre – and is currently President of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers in Ontario.

We wanted to find out more about Anne’s career path from banker to sommelier.

Why did you wait until you were mature to become a sommelier?

I went to university, graduated and started on my banking career right out of school, without giving any of it much thought. It has taken maturity to bring a better idea of what I want to do. And, you have to be mature to be a proper sommelier. As a 20-year old I wouldn’t have life or world experience, or had the opportunity to taste enough wines to have a library of wines in my head.

What do you most enjoy about being a sommelier?

I do enjoy wines and exploring new ones, but mostly the fact that you meet very interesting people, either those that already know a lot – and that can be intellectually stimulating – or people who know next to nothing but they are very curious. Generally people I meet in my line of business are cool people, because if you like a glass of wine you already tend to be a fun person.

Aren’t sommeliers usually men?

Generally people think there are more male sommeliers than women, but this is not necessarily true. Admittedly there are more visible men, and generally speaking it has been male dominated in Europe, though less so in North America. But, for example, there are three men and nine women on the CAPS board of directors. Women are totally committed to the profession, and bring an added touch – the same as in corporate professions – more warmth and nurturing. Being female is an added plus because you are not there to intimidate people about wine, you are there to ensure it’s an accessible, friendly and enjoyable experience.

What have you done as President of CAPS in Ontario?

Coming from the board of directors of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, it was an honour to become President – a two-year position. This summer we organized The Best Sommelier competition in Ontario, which we held at George Restaurant and Verity women’s club in Toronto. We had 22 candidates, and four made it to the finals. The winner can go on to compete nationally, then internationally if successful. This kind of competition gives more credibility to my profession.

In Toronto CAPS has over 120 members, mostly certified sommeliers working in the restaurant industry. The challenge that our profession faces today is that there are not enough restaurants in Toronto that believe they should have a sommelier. They do not quite see the value add proposition of paying an extra person to take care of their wine cellar should they have one (and they should have one).

How does a sommelier help a restaurant?

My feeling on that is that a sommelier is a profit centre and value-add to a restaurant business. There is nothing like being able to sell a good wine by the glass, and not necessarily from the general list at the LCBO. The key to a good restaurant sommelier is the ability to find wines that are interesting yet not expensive for the restaurant, then help turn the clients on to something they don’t know about yet. If you do that, you sell more glasses, and often sell up to a full bottle. I think every restaurant needs knowledgeable people who can help do that.

How have your passions changed as you matured?

I’ve become more in touch with what my passions are and more conscious of what I like and of what it is I’m not prepared to do. Reading is a great companion for me, and I’ve always enjoyed everything to do with hospitality, good food and wine, and of course travel to learn about other cultures.

How would others describe you?

People who like me would say I am friendly, relatively outgoing, and probably very knowledgeable. When I have an opinion I don’t usually shy from it. I think people would say that I know a lot of things about a lot of topics and that I am willing to share it with others.

What would you want to be remembered for?

I’d like to be remembered for having made a difference in people’s lives.

Anne Popoff is Sommelier, Wine Consultant, Translator

and President, Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, Ontario

Le Savoir-Vivre (416) 815-8555