It’s taking some time to find its identity, and 2008 reviews weren’t too hot. But we went anyway. We checked out Le Petit Castor (little beaver) in Rosedale. Twice.

Each visit was a completely different experience, and both happened since they changed the chef, I believe for the better.

Visit one: dinner for two, early evening – 7pm – on a summer Friday. Front of the house is staffed by personable young women, and it’s quiet. A twist on devils on horseback (dates, not prunes and a tiny dot of marscapone and blue cheese) is a flavour explosion of a bar snack. Delicious and velvety smooth carrot and ginger soup was followed by divine halibut. My guest had the ribs which were good, even though cooled en route from kitchen to table. We shared chocolate caramel torte which was not over sweetened and had a slightly salty crust, which was a magnificent combination. The wines were great, and the bill wasn’t bad. A perfectly relaxing evening, and we were ready to go back.

Visit two: four women, 8:30pm on a Thursday. The place was packed, and our table wasn’t ready, which left us squished in the entrance area crowding a table of diners – we hoped we weren’t disturbing their dinner, but they were most affable. The chef wandered by and told us what was good that evening (scallops). We were seated 10 minutes later. This was a different crowd. Rosedale trendies and young things rubbing shoulders (they had no choice) with ageing locals. The noise was deafening, and it was hard to hear our conversations. We liked the decor, nice booths, and all that, and the service was great. Three of us loved the asparagus soup, our fourth ordered mussels done beautifully but lacking in crusty bread to mop up the juices. Mains were disappointing. The same three had uninspiring scallops undercooked by about 45 seconds topping pea/corn succotash on cauliflower puree, which tasted great but looked like an accident befalling the plate.  The caesar salad, unusually served with a poached egg, looked good but the all-important dressing lacked flavour and oomph. “This is bottled dressing”, diner four, an expert chef herself, was convinced.

We left feeling rather disappointed. Consistent quality is what makes a restaurant. I’d go back, but not when it’s busy. I don’t think the kitchen staff can cope with large crowds.

Le Petit Castor

1118 Yonge Street

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